High Pressure Water Jetting - Environmentally Friendly Surface Preparation

High Pressure Water Jetting - Environmentally Friendly Surface Preparation

Cleaning a surface, whether porous or not, is a primary step before repainting or recovering an object. High pressure water jetting for surface preparation is a clean, economical way to prepare any surface. It is a form of hydro-cleaning - which means shooting water at a high pressure and concentrating its direction at the surface to be cleaned.

Loose particles, dust, and contaminants must be taken off first otherwise it will greatly impact the new application negatively. The new coating either won't adhere at all or it will have a short lifespan by easily peeling, chipping or wearing off far more quickly than normal. All of this can be avoided by taking a few minutes prior to the application.

Rather than sand-blasting or using chemical solvents, very high pressure water jets using the appropriate equipment for the right amount of force is a professional favourite of many to avoid unnecessary dust and mess with liquid strippers. It is also a safer way for the worker who has the task of removing the old surface. Chemicals require more safety precautions and can pose health risks. Some sand-blasting material can also be very environmentally unfriendly.

Using water forced through jets can remove old paint or other sealants from concrete to metals. The amount of pressure used can go as high as 2,800 bars and even higher, depending on the job. Commercial use can go even higher, as much as 3,800 bars, which is called ultra-high pressure water jetting.

Necessary equipment for high pressure water jetting for surface preparation ranges from tool-sized for use by a worker to machinery meant to perform the work without a human guiding it. It is an accepted way to prepare surfaces worldwide.

For surfaces which are porous, high pressure water jetting is the preferred way to remove old coatings. This is because the water jets can reach inside and clean out the old material and contaminants that are inside the microscopic pores without harming the surface itself. No damage is done which can easily happen with too much pressure from wire stripping or sand-blasting. Chemical solvents are also harder to gauge as to what strength and time they would need to be applied.

Asphalt is another surface that high pressure water jetting is commonly used to prepare. For airport runways, the amount of friction that comes into contact between an aeroplane and the asphalt surface is crucial. If there is too much tire rubber build-up on the surface, it becomes less resistant and more slippery, especially when wet. This causes aeroplanes to require more distance to take off and land.

There are many parts to a high pressure water jet for surface preparation. This includes a pump, valves, jets and a spray-bar, all which come in a variety of sizes for easy and tough alike. Some are rotary powered and some use hydraulic power.

Overall, for environmentally safe and powerful removal of unwanted coatings from tar to paint and other adherents, high pressure water jetting for surface preparation is the hydro-cleaning removal system chosen by professionals around the world.


Liquid Rubber Sealant - High Pressure Water Jetting - Environmentally Friendly Surface Preparation

Kool Seal 63-600-5 White Elastomeric Roof Coating

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Kool Seal 63-600-5
Review - Best Buy Kool Seal 63-600-5 White Elastomeric Roof Coating On Sale And Discount Price!


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Review - Kool Seal 63-600-5 White Elastomeric Roof Coating
  • Kool Seal, 5 Gallon
  • Premium White Elastomeric Roof Coating
  • Energy Saving Up To 35%
  • Desiged To Be Durable In Any Climate
  • Higher Solids For Better Coverage


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Interlocking Tile Flooring - It Doesn't Have to Be Expensive!

Interlocking Tile Flooring - It Doesn't Have to Be Expensive!

It isn't just about simple home redecoration - Interlocking Tile Flooring remodeling is about bringing different style and atmosphere into your home design. When you touch these natural panels you immediately feel pure nature in your hands. Read the following review and find out how you can quickly remodel any surface at home.

Quick overview

It may look different than any other tiling solution you know - Interlocking Tile Flooring redecoration is based on similar looking natural stones manually and carefully attached onto a mesh backing of 12" by 12" size. Among thousands of seashores around the globe it seems like the South East Asian beaches provide the largest variety natural rock panels. Tiling options are numerous; here are some of the most popular ones: Kitchens, bathrooms and showers - walls, flooring, counters, and backsplashes.

Main advantages

By now we clearly notice how this unique solution transforms our home design easier:

* Durable to most common home detergents.

* Provides natural and luxurious look and feel to any coated surface.

* Impervious to water and other liquids.

Need a good advice?

* Make sure the surface you are about to tile is flat, clean, dry and free of contaminants.

* In order to maintain these natural stones properly, it is recommended to apply sealants every two to three years.

* To appreciate the beauty of these 'Nature-Made' panels, it is recommended on removing the excess grout with a wet sponge. After all, you want to expose as much of the stones as possible.

We could list many other important great advantages provided by this enjoyable home improvement technique simply because it is versatile like no other tiling method available today.

On the bottom line

Interlocking Tile Flooring technique is an excellent choice because after your first successful installation you'll be able to use it on other surfaces at home or in the office much faster and more efficiently. The above information can help you with the installation process - it is advised to remember the above tips and advices just as you are ready to begin with installation.


Liquid Rubber Sealant - Interlocking Tile Flooring - It Doesn't Have to Be Expensive!

Mechanical Seal Installation For Centrifugal Pool Pumps

Mechanical Seal Installation For Centrifugal Pool Pumps

Your swimming pool pump is one of the key component in your pool filtration system; however, there will be times when it will require some major repairs. One of the more common repairs done on a pool or spa pump is the replacement of the mechanical seal. This is one of those repairs that could cost you a pile of money. A more cost effective way of doing this repair, is learning how to do it yourself.

Purpose of the pump seal

All centrifugal pumps have a shaft seal installed. The purpose of these shaft seals is to stop the water or liquid that is pumped from leaking along the shaft. Understanding mechanical pump seal designs is very important. It teaches you how a basic mechanical seal works. So how do I change the seal on my swimming pool pump? Please understand! Some pump seals are installed a little differently in some swimming pool and spa pumps; however, the principle purpose of the seal is the same. And that is to stop leaks.

Mechanical seal repair

Before you begin your seal repair, you have to kill all electrical power source to the pump motor. Once the power source is disconnected, you have to lock out the main circuit breaker. This will prevent any accidental switching of the power.

Tools and resources needed for the seal replacement

Replacement of pool pump mechanical seals require some basic tools and parts for the job. These are items such as:
An open end wrench set as well as a good ratchet set. A new mechanical seal for the new install. A set of flat screw drivers. Emery cloth (sand paper). A bearing puller. To help remove the pump impeller. A new replacement impeller. This will only be needed if the one that is on the pump needs replacing. A new volute paper gasket. You will not be able to re-use the original one. Hammer or heavy duty rubber mall. Now that you have the tools and parts needed for the repairs, you can proceed.
Steps to a successful shaft seal change Double check that your main circuit breaker is off and locked out. Close the valves on both the discharge and suction side of your pool pump. Loose the bolts that is holding the motor in place on its base plate. Back the motor away from the pump section and secure the flex coupling. Loose the drain plug on the volute housing to release and drain the pump housing. Loose the bolts that connect the volute cover plate to the volute. Loose the pump stand blots and separate the cover plate from the volute. Using the back away bolts. You may need to use your hammer to lightly tap the cover plate away. Using your ratchet, remove the bolt that is holding the impeller in place. Pull the impeller off the pump shaft. If it is hard to remove, use the bearing puller to aid in its removal. Inspect the impeller for wear and tear. This will determine if it has to be replace. If the impeller is in good condition, use care in its removal. You don't want to crack or bend the impeller. Once the impeller is removed, remove its holding key from the slot on the shaft. Using your screw driver, remove the spring and the rotating component of the old seal from the extended end of the pump shaft. Next, remove the ceramic (stationary component of the seal) from the seal recess in the volute cover plate. To do this, you have to turn the cover plate over and gently tap the damaged seal out. With the old mechanical seal completely removed, inspect the pump shaft and sleeve along with the seal recess for damage. There are times when you may have to replace the pump shaft but that is another repair within itself. Clean the seal recess with emery cloth and water and dry thoroughly. Clean the extended end of the shaft and sleeve to remove all the rust and dirt. Open the new mechanical shaft seal, be careful not to touch the polished face of the seal faces. Also do not rest the mechanical seal on down on your work table. The faces of the pump seal is easily scratched and once this happens you seal is not longer useful. It will leak. Install the stationary part (ceramic portion with the black rubber cup) of the seal into the volute cover plate. Remember it has to installed in exact manner as the old one. Also check and make sure that this part of the seal is inserted all the way into the seal recess on the cover plate. Now slide the rotating part of the pump shaft seal over the extended end of the shaft. Carefully push it down towards the polished face of the ceramic piece in the volute cover plate. Insert the impeller key into its slot on the pump shaft. Position the impeller over the shaft, aligning the slot of the impeller with the key and slide it into place. Replace the impeller washer and blot and tighten.

Now you are ready to re-assembly your pool centrifugal pump.
But first you need to replace the volute paper gasket and secure it in place with a little RTV silicone sealant. Always use non-hardening silicone lube on all your swimming pool and spa pump repairs. DO NOT use Vaseline or any other lubricants made with petroleum. They can cause problems by eating away some paper and plastic gaskets. Once the paper gasket is in place, you can begin your re-assembling of your pump.

Slide the volute cover plate assembly into the volute of the pump housing. Line up the holes for the cover bolts. Insert the bolts and tightened in a crisscross pattern. This helps the cover plate assembly to slide into place without the impeller binding to the walls of the volute. housing. Re-insert the flex coupling into its hub and slide the motor back into place; thus aligning the hub on the motor to the end of the flex coupling. Insert the holding bolts for the motor. Align the pump and motor to ensure proper operation. Failure to do this will cause your mechanical seal to fail again. Open the valves to both the discharge and the suction side of your pool pump. Restore the electrical power supply to the pump motor. Run the pump system and check for any leaks.

Congratulations! You just saved yourself a pile of money, by replacing the mechanical seal on your pool pump. I invite you to visit my site, where you will find a wealth of information that will help you manage your pool/spa correctly. Just click the link in the resource box.


Liquid Rubber Sealant - Mechanical Seal Installation For Centrifugal Pool Pumps

Flooring and Floor Mats

Flooring and Floor Mats

The least you are able to do for your kitchen area staff is provide a bit of cushioning for the long hours they spend on their feet. Kitchen mats, when correctly selected and utilized, provide traction for employees, minimize accidental breakage, and keep floors cleaner as well.

Rubber mats are arguably the most pleasant, but the longest-wearing mats contain nylon cords melded towards the rubber. You are able to also buy mats created of neoprene rubber (the same material wetsuits are created of), solid vinyl, and sponge vinyl.

Beveled or tapered edges provide an extra measure of security against tripping and are useful in heavy-traffic areas or if you're rolling carts. The mats should not be tough but textured, which forces people to change posture when standing on them for long time periods. Prior to you purchase mats, decide exactly where you will put them.

Kitchen area mats are usually three foot squares that may interlock, between 1/2 and 5/8 inches thick. Thicker mats provide more cushioning but thinner ones are easier to clean. There are specific grease-proof mats for areas near fryers, grills, and griddles; slightly raised bar mats, which drain spilled liquid beneath them to prevent slipping; and vinyl loop pile mats for kitchen entrances and exits, which can be specially treated to make them germ-, mold-, and mildew-resistant.

For public entrances, mats are only 1/4 inch thick (so individuals won't trip on them) and should be capable to trap incoming snow, ice, moisture, or mud. Your logo or a welcoming message could be emblazoned on the mat. If it is going to be placed over a carpeted surface, molded nubs on the bottom side from the mat will grip and adhere to the carpet.

Slippery floors are a security issue in every kitchen, but mats will improve employee comfort, and, in dish rooms, they'll minimize breakage of dishes and glassware. Where wet floors are a persistent problem, as in dish rooms, you also can maintain a fan blowing directly onto the ground, and require that workers in these areas wear shoes with nonskid soles.

Slip-resistant shoe requirements are becoming increasingly typical in food service, as a way to maximize usage and reduce the restaurant owners' liability. Some buy the shoes for their employees as part of their uniforms; others spell out appropriate footwear styles and have discipline policies for those who show up repeatedly without the correct footwear.

It's essential simply because it can decrease the number of slip-and-fall accidents by 70 to 80 percent.Even with protective mats, it is the manager's responsibility to see that floors are cleaned often. Today's mats are light, weighing three to five pounds apiece, for simple lifting and cleaning. They can be taken outdoors to a loading dock or back parking lot and hosed down with high-pressure drinking water and cleaning fluid that melts the grease buildup.

Or you can use a motorized floor scrubber/vacuum (occasionally called a wet-vac), which has rotary brushes and uses hot water and detergent to loosen grime from mats and floors and then whisks away most of the moisture with an absorbent squeegee located at the back of the machine. The floor covering you select will go a long way toward ensuring a safe working environment. You'll hear the term aggregate to describe nonskid ground surfaces.

This means something additional has been added, generally to a top or second layer of the ground material, to give it a lot more friction. It may be fine sand, clay, tiny bits of gravel or metal, carborundum chips, or silicon carbide. Among veterans, unglazed quarry tile is the undisputed favorite. Quarry tile contains bits of ceramic (usually carborundum chips), clay, and/or silicon carbide for slip resistance. Even when it wears down in a high traffic area, it maintains its skid-proof quality.

Quarry tile ought to be at least 3/8-inch thickness; in locations with heavy foot visitors or where appliances are frequently rolled, a 1/2-inch or 3/4-inch thickness is favored. The tile is only part of the puzzle, nevertheless. It should be grouted into location, and that grout should be able to withstand significant differences in pressure, temperature, and moisture as well as exposure to grease and chemicals.

The recommendation is a so-called thickset mud bed, utilizing either an epoxy or even a special cement with latex added for elasticity. Epoxy is generally regarded a lot more resilient, but either kind of grout is susceptible to deterioration if it is constantly wet. The tile is laid onto a setting bed of cement, which should be sloped toward the floor drains.

This facilitates steam or pressure cleaning, and keeps water from standing beneath the tiles and damaging the floor over time. An additional option is really a one-piece ground, poured all at once and created of epoxy, polyester, urethane, or magnesite cement. This can also be called a monolithic floor. An epoxy composite ground consists of several layers:

the epoxy or resin, then an intermediate sealer layer, an aggregate layer to create the ground slip-resistant, along with a clear finish (also epoxy) to seal the ground. The resulting ground is 3/16 to 1/4 inches thick and can withstand extreme temperatures around fryers and other cooking equipment. An epoxy composite ground is roughly half the strength of a quarry tile ground, but its chief advantage is that it is seamless-there is no grout to clean or maintain.

It is skid- and scuff-resistant, resilient, and unharmed by moisture, food spills, acidic substances, and also the like. Epoxy is also simple to repair-just grind down the worn or damaged part and pour a new layer there. Composite sheet vinyl is another kind of seamless flooring, laid in sheets on a bare ground having a layer of adhesive.

For food service applications, an additional top layer of aggregate is mixed with the vinyl for slip resistance. Heat welding is utilized to seal the perimeter from the sheets onto the ground. Sheet vinyl is attractive, resilient, and has superb resistance to moisture and food acids. It is superior for use in wet locations, although this kind of floor is susceptible to scratches, dents, and some stains. Today's sheet vinyl comes in all kinds of funky colors and patterns that mimic everything from wood to slate to jungle prints, so it is suitable for frontof-house locations too as kitchens.

Hubbelite is a compound mixture of cement, copper, limestone, magnesium, and a few other points. It is 1/2-inch thick, strong, slip-resistant, and comfortable to walk on, and gaining popularity in remodels because it can be installed over any existing ground kind, including quarry tile. Hubbelite has superb stain and moisture resistance, and also the addition of copper and magnesium makes it somewhat insect-repellent and prevents bacteria and mold growth.

Cleaning it is also simple; just mop it. The downsides are that Hubbelite comes in only one color, brick red, and that you should choose an installer who is familiar with the product to do a good job with it. Ceramic tile could be used for both floors and walls, in kitchens or dining locations. It is resilient and decorative, and its use can immediately bestow charm and character or add artsy, ethnic touches to any space.

Commercial-grade tile is generally baked clay, covered with a glaze to create it sturdier. New technologies has given new life to this ancient material, with many a lot more varieties, colors, styles, and patterns of tile readily available. It's easy to thoroughly clean, too, with soap and water.

The a lot more stylish and decorative the tile, the a lot more costly it will be, so budget-minded restaurateurs may opt for tile only on half-walls, some countertops, or as accents in display kitchens. The lowest-cost types of flooring are vinyl tile and sealed concrete. Vinyl tile is considered fairly higher maintenance and does not offer maximum traction or heat resistance, even though it is easy to install and thoroughly clean.

We'd recommend it only for use in dry storage locations, never in food prep or dish washing areas. In some jurisdictions, health regulations don't permit its use for commercial food service. A concrete floor sealed having a water-based epoxy coating is really a good choice. Be certain the dry thickness from the coating is 1.5 to 2.five millimeters. Whether you choose vinyl, tile, or a one piece poured ground, it's critical that it be properly bonded towards the concrete slab beneath it.

This is called "curing" the floor, and if it is not done correctly, the ground will eventually crack. No artificial curing agents or sealers ought to be used. They'll destroy the adhesives utilized to set the ground and maintain it in place. For public spaces, terrazzo flooring is an attention-getting option. Terrazzo begins having a extremely durable cement or epoxy base, into which chips of granite, marble, tile or even seashells might be mixed.

It can be pricey and it takes a lengthy time to install, but it's resilient and very attractive. Hardwood floors are a well-liked choice in dining areas, and technologies has produced a lot more durable products and finishes than ever before. Recognized as engineered wood items (EWP), these materials also are considered environmentally friendly because they are made from scrap wood.

Softer woods, for example white pine, do show their age-and that's exactly why some designers select them, to take on a pleasant, worn look with use. Mats or region rugs can be used for especially high-traffic spots. Cleaning is really a simple routine of sweeping, dust mopping, and vacuuming; the precaution here is to use cleaning items formulated for wood floors.

Avoid products created for dusting wooden surfaces-they'll only make a floor slippery. Carpeting isn't an option in the kitchen, but in dining locations, beautiful carpet can make a lasting impression. Worn and soiled carpets, however, can make an equally strong impression: that the location is dirty and also the staff is inattentive at greatest, oblivious at worst.

Actually, dust mites, fungi, and bacteria can live and thrive in carpets that aren't well cared for. In busy commercial settings, it's probably greatest to install carpet by the roll rather than squares-fewer edges to lift up and cause people to trip. Carpet has a definite life cycle and will require to become replaced periodically, but it's frequently preferred in dining locations for its ability to suppress noise.


Liquid Rubber Sealant - Flooring and Floor Mats

Flexane(R) 80 Liquid (1 lb.) [PRICE is per BOTTLE]

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Devcon
Review - Best Buy Flexane(R) 80 Liquid (1 lb.) [PRICE is per BOTTLE] On Sale And Discount Price!


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$91.68
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Review - Flexane(R) 80 Liquid (1 lb.) [PRICE is per BOTTLE]
  • Two-component compound easy to mix and pour
  • Cures at room temperature to a semi-rigid rubber material
  • Makes precision molds that faithfully reproduce detail
  • Listed under NSN#8030-00-144-9756
  • Returns to its original shape after 350% elongation
  • Ten-hour demolding time
  • Sale Unit: BOTTLE


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Supplies For Getting Started in Stained Glass

Supplies For Getting Started in Stained Glass

This list is meant to aid create a shopping list for the beginning stained glass art student. Not all of the items will be essential for every project, for instance you will employ either lead cames OR copper foil and their corresponding accessories dependent on the stained glass style you will be using. Other tools listed may well be very helpful, but not entirely necessary, one pair of pliers may be adequate to do several jobs for example.

Glass Cutters - One of the most significant tools you will employ in stained glass making, good glass cuts will make or break your job. These range from very inexpensive carbide steel wheel cutters (you will require to include cutting oil as you go along) to slightly more expensive self-oiling tungsten carbide or pistol grip wheel cutters.

Cutting Oil - This assists reduce friction allowing a smoother cut and in addition keeps glass debris from encumbering the cutting wheel's progress.

Soldering Iron - (pronounced like soddering) This is once did melt lead solder which in turn is accustomed to join bits of metal, such as the lead cames or copper foil that will hold your glass pieces together.

Solder - The type you will be employing in stained glass making should be an alloy (mixture) of tin and lead. This normally enters a spool of either a 50/50 or 60/40 blend. The 60/40 is slightly more expensive, flows more smoothly and is consequently preferable for making a glass project.

Sal Ammoniac - This is soldering iron tip cleaner made from a naturally occurring mineral that reacts to the heat of the soldering iron and removes debris when the iron is gently rubbed on it.

Flux - Helps remove oxidation and other dirt and debris from the metal surfaces so that the solder can adhere to it. This is an absolute necessity to keep your glass pieces together; the solder just won't "stick" without it!

Flux Brush - A very inexpensive brush used to put on the flux.

Flux Remover - Can be familiar with neutralize flux or patina and is oftentimes used at the conclusion of projects to tidy up small errors and over-flow.

Cutting Square - Helpful when drawing squares or other designs requiring a right angle.

Ruler - Employed for measuring project dimensions in addition to for drawing or cutting a straight line. A non-skid backing like cork or rubber will help keep it from sliding on the glass.

Pattern Shears - These are the special scissors that automatically cut the proper size strip of paper between pattern pieces to allow room for the lead cames or copper foils to be placed between the various glass bits of the purpose.

Grozing Pliers - These pliers have narrow, serrated jaws for picking up small chucks of glass and can be used to remove uneven or jagged pieces of stained glass after cutting.

Running Pliers - These thick pliers help to carefully break stained glass pieces that have been scored on the purpose furrows.

Needle Nose Pliers - A good all around tool to possess handy, can be employed for small detail work.

Wire Cutters - These can be used to cut reinforcing wire or the picture hanging wire to hang your finished glass art project.

Hammer or Mallet - A good rubber headed mallet can be used to gently tap stained glass pieces into place.

Carborundum Stone - A trademarked name for a grinding tool once was smooth the edges of cut pieces of stained glass. Should be wetted periodically to make smoothing easier.

Electric Glass Grinder - A bit bigger technique to smooth the glass edges; this is a machine that will do the job faster and more efficiently. This is definitely nice, but optional.

Copper Foil - One of the choices of material to grasp the pieces of stained glass together. Enters various widths depending on the appearance of your job- make certain your pattern shears are similar width as your foil or came.

Copper Foil Dispenser - One other nicety, this makes handling the copper foil easier, much the way a tape dispenser makes tape easier to deal with.

Lead Cames - The original choice in stained glass support systems. These come as long strips of lead with grooves or channels on either one side or both, depending on whether it is to be used as an inside or fringes piece of the stained glass.

Lead Vise - Holds the lead were sent out place to allow it to be stretched before use.

Lead Cutters - Also called lead pliers these snips are especially helpful when trimming cames for use in the corners of your stained glass project.

Lead Knife - Can be employed to make clean straight cuts on lead cames.

Horseshoe Nails - Great for holding frames in place when assembling your stained glass project.

Dustpan and Brush - Helps to look after your workplace clean which is important in making stained glass projects because debris will prevent things from sticking properly.

Security Goggles - Keeps bits of lead or glass from damaging the eyes during cutting, always keep in mind "wellbeing first"!

Wooden Block Holder - Can be useful for holding pieces of stained glass.

Masking Tape - Always handy in the workshop; may be familiar with hold pattern pieces together or a number of other uses.

Picture Hanging Wire or Other Fasteners - For hanging your completed stained glass project.

Lead Plank with Right Angle Support - Helpful in holding a lead stained glass project in place during assembly while keeping the edges clean and straight.

Timber or Plastic Fid - Great as a burnishing or spreading tool when applying foil to stained glass.

Glazing Concrete - Seals and beefs up the joint areas of the lead cames.

Whiting - Serves to dry and set the glazing concrete. Can also be familiar with remove excess putty from the stained glass.

Stiff Bristle Brush - Used for trying glazing cement.

Patina - Liquid answer that changes the appearance of solder, can give a more antiqued visual aspect.

Rubber Your mitts - Completely necessary when employing patina or any other solvents to the project; you do not want these penetrating your skin!

Mirror Sealer - This aerosol spray is used on the rear of mirrors to possess the reflective coating from being scratched or damaged.

Finishing Compound - Offers the finishing touch to your stained glass project, adding polish and shine while providing a protective finish to aid prevent oxidation and tarnish buildup.

Pushpins, Tacks and Jig Material - Items that might be of use in holding certain pieces together while assembling your stained glass project.

Craft Knife - Perfect for correcting small errors in copper foiling and other small tasks.

Steel Wool - May remove oxidized material from solder and other metal parts.

Plastic Basin and Sponge - With warm soapy water to clean glass and metal debris from your stained glass workspace.

Carbon Paper - For making pattern copies.

Tracing Paper - For tracing the original design unto a clean copy.

Rubber Concrete - For holding pattern pieces on glass to make cutting them out easier.

Pens, Pencils, Markers and Colored Pencils - Required for drawing and coloring in pattern pieces.

There you have it, a not-so-condensed shopping list to get you on your way to a new hobby in stained glass art making!


Liquid Rubber Sealant - Supplies For Getting Started in Stained Glass

10 Things Every RV Camper Needs

10 Things Every RV Camper Needs

Below is a list of items we take with us on every camping trip. We recommend them to friends and customers, we trust them with our families, and we're sure you will trust them too. Everything here is available at our store, or you can order online and get it delivered right to your home.

1. Chempace drop-in toilet chemicals
Toilet chemicals are the most important element to your black water (sewer) system on your camper. Make sure you have the ease of use that drop-ins provide. They are less expensive than pre-mixed liquids, and easier to store, because they don't freeze during the winter. Stock up on these - you're going to need them.

2. Aquasoft toilet tissue by Thetford
Only toilet paper designed for RV black water systems should be used in your trailer. Prevent clogs, and avoids the hassle of time consuming tank clean-outs when the kids are cranky from the heat and the wife is complaining about the clean-out station smells.

3. Valterra EZ-Coupler Sewer Hose set
Don't get caught without a good quality sewer hose. The EZ Coupler set has built in fittings, and the sewer fitting, and easily converts from a 10' to a 20' hose, depending on what you need. Made with heavy duty 18 mil vinyl for long lasting protection from leaks and pin holes.

4. Valterra water pressure regulator
All RV manufacturers recommend using a water pressure regulator to protect your RV's plumbing fittings. It keeps the water running between 40-55 psi. and stops water surges from campgrounds (they don't use fancy plumbing) from damaging any of the water lines in your trailer. One leak inside your trailer and this will pay for itself.

5. Iosso water repellant
Camping is fun, but getting wet is not. This works on any fabric that is exposed to the elements. Use it on tent campers, tents, boat covers, luggage bags, trailer covers, anything you want protected.

6. Lap sealant (roof caulking) by Dicor
The most expensive repair bill you'll ever get on your camper will be if the roof leaks and you don't do anything about it. This is the only caulking you should be using on your rubber roof on your RV. It is designed to level itself, and fill gaps in your application, making a good seal. Trailer manufacturers recommend checking your roof every three months.

7. Black Streak Remover from Best
Remove those ugly black streaks from your camper easily, keeping your RV looking showroom clean for years to come. Especially useful when the family in the next lot pulls up in a 0,000 motorhome.

8. Replacement Anode Rod by Camco
For use primarily with Suburban water heaters, this is one of the most sought after repair parts. When you drain your water out of the water heater, make sure you inspect the anode rod, and replace it if necessary. Protect your water heater from corrosion, and avoid costly repairs down the line.

9. Mud Dauber Insect Screens by JCJ Enterprises
Insects will gravitate to any area that smells like Propane. This means that your furnace exhaust, water heater vent, and refrigerator vents are all likely places for mud dauber wasps and other insects to nest. Protect yourself from accidental fire, as well as exhaust vent problems with these easy to install screens.

10. 7-4 wire adapter by Hopkins
Once you've got a good hitch, everyone in your family will know it and they will want you to tow something for them. When you need to tow any smaller or older trailers, this adapter converts the round 7-way plug on most new vehicles, to a 4-wire flat plug, common among smaller campers, and utility trailers. Make sure you have one in your toolbox, so an easy job doesn't cost you time searching place to place for the right adapter.


Liquid Rubber Sealant - 10 Things Every RV Camper Needs

Macco Adhesives DR-807 Liquid Nails Asphalt Repair

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Macco Adhesives DR-807
Review - Best Buy Macco Adhesives DR-807 Liquid Nails Asphalt Repair On Sale And Discount Price!


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Review - Macco Adhesives DR-807 Liquid Nails Asphalt Repair
  • "MACCO" ASPHALT REPAIR SEALANT
  • Size: 10.3 oz
  • Color: Black


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Permatex 81730 Flowable Silicone Windshield and Glass Sealer - 1.5 oz.

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Review - Permatex 81730 Flowable Silicone Windshield and Glass Sealer - 1.5 oz.
  • Forms a tough, waterproof, durable, clear seal that is resistant to weather, extreme temperatures, vibration, shock and most shop chemicals
  • Fills surface voids and irregularities
  • Temperature range -80F to 450F
  • Suggested Applications: Windshields, sunroofs, windows, headlamp assemblies, marine glass, RV vents and windows
  • 1.5 fl oz tube


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Learn How to Stamp Concrete - Do it Yourself With Ease

Learn How to Stamp Concrete - Do it Yourself With Ease

First we need pick our colors. This can be one of the trickiest parts of the stamping process. There are of course color swatches, the best way to pick your color from a color swatch is to pick a color from the swatch and then go back one or two colors to get the actual color that you want. This is very similar to picking out a color that you want to paint a room. There are many variables such a lighting and the other colors in the room (sofa's, rugs drapes etc.) that you wish to paint. How many times have you picked out a color at the paint store and started to paint your room and suddenly it just will not seem to match the color you picked from a swatch. This is what I call perceived vision. If you can relate to what I have just mentioned it also applies to picking out a color for your stamped concrete project, there are many variables of perceived vision, such as sunlight and surrounding colors, such as the color of your house, grass, and landscaping.

Onto pouring and finishing your stamped concrete project, I suggest that you start with no more than 100 square feet. First off let the concrete truck driver put the color into the concrete truck for you, and let it mix for at least 10 minutes. You may notice some streaking of the color as it comes out of the concrete truck, not to worry. You will want some color differences as this will resemble the natural colors of what ever impressions or stamp that you have chosen for your project. For example if you look at a rock you will notice that it has many shades of the same color and often some other colors. Your next step will be to insert the concrete into your forms, you will need what is called a screed board or a 2"x 4", the purpose of a screed board is to level out the concrete inside of your forms and to also knock down the aggregate or rocks inside the cement.

Place the wet concrete inside your form work and leave it about a .5" higher than the top of your forms. A good way to get a rough grade is to use a tool called a concrete rake or a square edged shovel. Once you have gotten the concrete .5" above your form work you can start the "screeding" process. You will need someone to help you with this process. Once you have one person on each side of the screed board each of you will start to pull the concrete towards the end of the form work leveling as you go along. At this point you will need a bull float to close the surface of the concrete.

Generally you will run the bull float from top to bottom across the concrete overlapping each previous pass approximately 50% and then repeat the process from side to side. Do not worry about getting it completely flat, as once you begin to stamp it will not be flat at all. Do not get hung up on small dips or small elevation changes in the concrete. Now you may begin to edge the perimeter of the concrete with an edging tool, again do not get hung up on doing this perfect, especially if this is your first time. Now you will run a fresno across your project in the same manner as the bull float.

Now it is time to stamp your project. Prior to the concrete truck arriving, you will want to place the liquid release agent into a cheap garden sprayer and also get yourself some surface retardant and do the same. Liquid release simply allows you to place the rubber stamp onto the concrete without pulling off the finish of your concrete, the surface retardant will slow the set time of the concrete if you feel you are getting behind. Simply spray the area you will be placing your stamp and the stamp itself before you place the stamp onto the concrete. Do not spay the entire project at once as this will accelerate the setting time of the concrete and it will more than likely dry up before you get to the end of your project. Place each stamp down and set the next stamp snug against the stamp mat that is already on the concrete. Repeat this process until you reach the end.

Let your project cure for about 3-5 days and it is time to add secondary colors or the antique stage. For this you will need to get an antique agent, I suggest you use charcoal or grey for your first time. You will also need to get some xylene, one gallon for every 80_90 square feet. You will then add 5 tbsp. of antique agent to the xylene in a 1 gallon garden sprayer and stir or shake for about 45 seconds. In a circular motion spray the secondary colors onto the stamped concrete project, keeping in mind to spray some areas thicker that others, while being careful not to spray it on to thick, this will give you a more natural looking finish.

Let the xylene dry and apply two coats of; non-yellowing, solvent based acrylic sealant. Your project will be a lot darker when you apply the sealant than you anticipated, not to worry, the sealant also needs to cure. Within a day or two it will lighted up to your perceived vision.


Liquid Rubber Sealant - Learn How to Stamp Concrete - Do it Yourself With Ease

Loctite(R) Color Guard(R) Coating; 34979 14.5OZ [PRICE is per CAN]

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Review - Loctite(R) Color Guard(R) Coating; 34979 14.5OZ [PRICE is per CAN]
  • Approvals: Canadian Food Inspection Agency (CFIA)
  • Sale Unit: CAN


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GAL GRY Elasto-Seal

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Review - GAL GRY Elasto-Seal
  • GAL ELAST SEAL UNDERCOAT
  • KW's: elasto seal roof coating


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Coating Materials For Concrete Garage Floors

Coating Materials For Concrete Garage Floors

Several coating materials can be used to coat garage floors. Commonly four basic types of materials are used to coat concrete garage floors. These materials include:

o Epoxy
o Polyurethane
o Acrylic Sealer/Stain
o Latex

Epoxy

It is widely used as floor coating. It is very resistant to chemical but gets yellow and less glossy upon long exposures to direct sunlight. It forms hard long lasting surface and binds strongly with concrete surface. It is available in solvent or water based formulations with ratio of 1 part or 2 parts. It should be applied between temperature ranges of from 60 to 80 degrees in less humid environment. Epoxy will get dry in few hours if it is applied in high temperature range. But you have to wait for several days to get hard enough for vehicle traffic. Curing time can be reduced by increasing application temperature to 90 degrees. Major problems which occur during application are bubbling, blush and color streaking. Air trapped with nap roller causes bubbling while other contaminants of flooring material and moisture results in color streaks. Blushes are formed as white greasy or waxy layer. They are formed due to reaction between atmosphere moisture and hardening material. If garage is extensively used you need to recoat after every 3 to 5 years.

Polyurethane

It is bit expensive coating material than all other materials. It is more resistant to chemicals as compared to epoxy and does not get fade too much upon exposure to sunlight. It is highly durable and gives fine glossy finish. But it is not suggested to directly use on concrete flooring. It can only bind properly when applied over primer coat of epoxy. It is used as protective coating and creates special effect. Besides its expensive cost one can use if he/she wants traditional look.

Acrylic Sealer/Acid Stain

Acrylic Sealer/acid stain adds unique and expressive finish in multiple tones and colors. You can recreate the appearance of your stone flooring. It will give you chance to experiment and diverse patterns and designs. Acid stains are translucent and make design with blemishes of concrete flooring. It is not a coating it chemically reacts with floor. That's why floor must be free of contaminants. It is kind of permanent finish and needs additional protective coating with acrylic sealer. This protective coating can be damaged with exposure to sun light and dragging of heavy objects across the floor surface. Sealer needs protective waxing one or more than one time in order to maintain its proper look.

Latex

It is least expensive material among all other coating materials. It is a synthetic polymer that resembles to latex obtained from rubber tree. There are many misconceptions that it is not a good floor coating material. It can be a good option of floor coating material. Performance mainly depends on the formulation of paint.


Liquid Rubber Sealant - Coating Materials For Concrete Garage Floors

Sticky Ass Glue SAG4OZ Waterproof Stubbornly Strong Glue, 4-Ounce

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Sticky Ass Glue SAG4OZ
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Review - Sticky Ass Glue SAG4OZ Waterproof Stubbornly Strong Glue, 4-Ounce
  • Available in a convenient 4-Ounce size
  • Sticky Ass Glue is a moisture cure adhesive so it must be exposed to moisture to solidify
  • Bonds dozens of various substrates: excellent bond strength for EPS board, wood, fiberglass, foam, brick, ceramic
  • Temperature resistance: -20 Fahrenheit to 250 Fahrenheit; Application temperature: 70 Fahrenheit to 100 Fahrenheit
  • Glue appearance is amber; once completely dry can be painted, sanded and stained


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