PROFESSIONAL NOTE: To achieve the best results from your interior paint project, apply the primer and base coat with good quality paint, brushes, rollers and application tools. You will be surprised how your interior paint project will be effortless in helping you to apply a thicker, more uniform coat of paint for a better-looking, longer-lasting paint job.

Gather Materials and Supplies:

Ladder

Plastic water bucket

Gloves

Rags

TSP (optional for cleaning oil and Grime)

liquid soap

Screwdriver

Drop cloths (plastic and cloth) or sheets

Blue painter's tape (with and without paper attached)

Old paintbrushes or china bristle brushes for dusting

Spackling compound

5-in-1 tool or wide blade

Latex caulk

220-grit sandpaper

Latex primer

Latex paint, eggshell or satin sheen

Plastic 2 gallon Paint Bucket

Paint tray, paint roller and 3/8" roller cover

2" - 3" Quality nylon/polyester brush

Paint Basics

Acrylic Paint?

Latex paints are not all the same. Now the term "latex" includes all water-based paints. High-performance interior paints are 100% acrylic; they have better color retention, better adhesion and, in the case of faux finishing the better choice for an undercoat than vinyl-acrylics.

Not to mention, manufacturers consider 100% acrylics to be their best products.

Which Paint for this room? How will the room be used?

In functional, high traffic rooms such as kitchens, bathrooms and bedrooms, you want durability and easy maintenance first. In more decorative and romantic rooms, such as living rooms, master bedrooms and dining rooms, appearance is often the key factor. In a child's room, safety is critical."

Here is Final advice on paint quality.

When you buy paint, go for the reputable brands. Suit your choices to the project, but at the same time, "don't waste your time" or your money on low-quality paint. There are significant differences between cheap and quality paints, particularly in characteristics such as hiding and wash ability. Obviously, one-coat hiding is a major labor saver and well worth paying a premium to get the results.

Be sure not to forget to check the warrantee on the label--this gives you a fair measure of the differences between quality levels of various paints. Last but not least, you are also likely to find a wider variety in color choices with your quality paint lines.

Estimating PAINT COVERAGE

How do you determine the amount of paint you will need for a particular room?
The first step is to add the width of all walls in the room together. Multiply this sum by the height of one wall from floor to ceiling (or, the circumference of the room times the ceiling height). If you have a number of windows and doors, subtract the square footage of those openings. This final number will give you the exact area of wall space you will paint.

A flat surface usually requires one gallon for every 400 square feet (the product label will show the coverage). Take into account the number of coats you will need to do the job right and this depends on the color and the quality of the paint. Remember, it's always a good idea to have a little leftover paint for future touch-ups.
Once you've properly prepped your walls, the actual painting is easy.

Follow these steps in order, and don't skip any of them. Wait until the first coat dries before deciding
whether you need a second one.

Steps To professionally Painted Walls:

CLEAR THE ROOM

STEP ONE: When transforming the walls in your home, start by removing any furniture or obstructions from the room. Cover the floors and any remaining furnishings in the middle of the room, cover with drop cloths or plastic sheets. Next remove outlet covers, nails, and screws. Tape the screws to the outlet cover and store in separately marked plastic bags, for easy re-installation. Then tape over the outlets and light switches to prevent paint from getting on electric outlets and switches.

FIX THE WALL IMPERFECTIONS

STEP TWO: Scrape off flaking paint, repair holes and cracks with spackle with a wide blade or five-in-one tool. Feather back rough paint edges by sanding. Always fill the imperfection flush with the surface even if it means having to refill 2-3 times due to shrinkage. It is much easier to refill than to sand back too much spackling. After the spackle dries, finish by lightly sanding with a medium (220 grit sandpaper), dust off surface and then prime each repaired area with small roller. Re-caulk any spaces you find where countertops, baseboards and moldings meet the wall.

NOTE: Use protective face mask while sanding.

NOTE: If you are repainting a glossy surface, be sure to sand it so that the new paint will adhere better.

CLEAN THE ROOM

STEP THREE: Use an old paintbrush or china bristle brush to dust baseboards, trim and crown molding before taping them off (use painter's tape to protect the baseboards and moldings). Remove all dust from surfaces using a soft cloth or use a soft bristle broom to brush down new plasterboard. Paint doesn't stick to dirty walls so clean them with soap and water (or TSP and water), then rinse with clean water, changing water regularly.

NOTE: Wear rubber gloves, protective clothing and protective eye-wear.

TAPING

STEP FOUR: Use low adhesive blue painters to tape trim around ceiling, baseboards, windows and door frames. (If you do not have ceiling trim or crown molding, you must use safe release tape on bare ceiling). Tape over phone jacks, thermostats, and moldings. Remove tape immediately after painting, before the wall dries, so you don't peel off any paint with it.

PRIMING THE WALLS

STEP FIVE: If your walls are bare sheetrock or previously wallpapered surface, then you should use the recommended primer for that type of surface. Existing semi-gloss or gloss paints should be lightly sanded to a duller finish, and then proper primer for that surface. If the walls have not been painted in five years or longer a primer sealer should also be applied.

NOTE: Always work in areas from the top to bottom. Paint Ceiling first, then walls, then the trim or moldings. Always brush the edges (cutting in) first prior to rolling. When cutting in make sure you feather out the edges.

NOTE: When you begin start from a corner left to right, or right to left, according to the most comfortable starting point for you. With a pole attached to the end of the Roller, start from the center of the surface and roll the paint from the center towards the top and bottom of the wall. Roll the wall much like you would vacuum carpet, this will give you the smoothest wall. To avoid a patchy wall finish, make sure you finish the complete coat before walking away to avoid a patchy finish.

BASE COAT THE WALLS

CUTTING IN TECHNIQUE

STEP SIX: Thoroughly stir your paint with a stir stick. Then, pour the paint into a larger 2-gallon bucket for easier handling. Make sure you pour no higher than 1/3 full in your new paint container. With a 2" wide (or angle) brush, load by dipping 1/3 of the bristle length into the paint. You can remove excess paint from the brush by tapping the bristles against the inside of the bucket. Starting from the top corner of the wall, cut in approximately 3 inches around the top of the wall where the wall meets the ceiling and cut in the bottom of the wall where the wall meets the baseboard. Cut in the corners of the wall and around all window and door trim while always working from the non- paint area to the previously painted areas, smooth out the cut in by lightly brushing the tip of the bristles (tipping off) over the newly painted area, creating a feathered edge. Repeat steps until the perimeter of the walls are complete.

ROLLING THE WALL:

STEP SEVEN: You have the choice of pouring the paint into a paint tray or a 5-gallon bucket. Place an appropriate nap roller onto a roller frame. Attach an extension pole onto the roller frame. Dip roller cover completely into paint covering the entire nap area. When using a 5-gallon bucket, pour no higher than 1/3 full and use a bucket grid to offload the excess paint and to evenly distribute the paint onto the roller. When using a paint tray, offload the excess paint by rolling onto the ribbed section of the paint tray Starting at the top corner of the wall, place the evenly loaded roller approximately 3-4" away from the cut in area. Working in a 3' x 3' area, roll a "W" onto the wall.

Continue rolling from the top edge of the wall to the bottom cut in area. Back roll through the completed area prior to reloading the roller, creating a smooth uniform finish. Reload the roller as necessary. Continue applying the paint, each time starting with the "W" technique 3-4" away from the last section completed. Working from the top section of the wall and working down the wall. Always, back roll the width of the roller being used into the last section completed. Continue until your wall is completely covered.

NOTE: Paint the trim last. When the walls are completely dry, paint or touch up the moldings, the door and window frames with a two-inch angled brush.

FINISHED DEAR? CLEAN UP AFTER PAINTING

1. Carefully remove all tape from hinges, doorknobs, light switches, and trim.

2. Remove drop cloth coverings from floors, furniture and light fixtures.

NOTE: It is best to score taped areas where the tape meets the painted surface with a utility knife, to help prevent peeling when the tape is removed.

NOTE: Cloth Drop cloths should be taken outside to remove dust and debris, then folded and stored for future use. Place all disposable coverings and loose debris into the appropriate trash can.

3. Re-attach all switch plates, and outlet covers.

4. Vacuum, mop or clean the floor where coverings were removed.

5. Re-hang items to the wall such as pictures and mirrors.

6. Move furniture and rug back to its original position.

7. Replace all valuables that were removed from tabletops and cabinets.

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PAINT SHEEN

The difference between paint sheens. What's in a name?

Once you choose color for your paint project, you have one more decision to make: the paint sheen! The names are: flat, eggshell, pearl, satin, semi-gloss and gloss. What does this all mean? The paint sheen refers to the gloss level or the degree of light reflected from the surface once the paint has dried. Each company has slight variations.

It is obvious to tell the difference between a flat and a high-gloss, but it's the levels in between, when and how we use each sheen that can get confusing to all of us. So, here we have listed the key factors in choosing a paint finish.

The glossier a finish, the more durable and washable it tends to be. Flat paint is great at hiding irregularities and surface imperfections. Pearl and eggshell paints are a compromise; they partially hide imperfections and are more washable than flat paints.

For painting interiors, the best choices are often flat paint for ceilings, eggshell and satin for walls and semi-gloss or gloss on doors and trim. The most popular paint sheen is satin, a good choice because it's not too shiny but cleans easier than flat and a perfect base for popular faux finishing techniques.

FLAT

Durability of Flat Paint: If you have children or pets, this paint sheen isn't the best choice for walls as it tends to show dirt and scuff marks easily. This sheen is not an easy paint to keep clean.

Where to Use Flat Paint: are great choice for areas with dents, dings and rough surface texture. This sheen is perfect for surfaces that do not have a lot of contact with human hands, such as ceilings.

Comments on Flat Paint: Although this sheen hides surface imperfections, stain removal is difficult. Use this sheen for a uniform, non-reflecting appearance.

EGGSHELL

Durability of Eggshell Paint: More durable and washable than most flat paints, but not as durable as Satin or Semi-gloss.
Where to Use Eggshell Paint: are great choice for wall surfaces in foyers, hallways, and Dining rooms. You can clean this paint sheen. Eggshell paints reflect more light than flat, but only slightly. The best way to describe paint is the reflective qualities of this sheen are similar to that of a real eggshell.

Comments on Eggshell Paint: This sheen resists stains better than flat paint and gives a more lustrous appearance offering a soft glow that warms up any room

SATIN

Durability of Satin Paint: are durable enough to stand up to most dirt, cleaning and are great for high traffic or food preparation areas.

Where to Use Satin Paint: are typically used for kitchens, bathrooms, hallways, kids' rooms and even some woodwork and trim.

Comments on Satin Paint: are not truly "shiny," but more like actual satin, in having subtle reflective qualities. This sheen adds just enough light to the walls to be called a slight "glow". Satin or semi-gloss finishes are easy to clean and are good for highlighting architectural details.

SEMI - GLOSS

Durability Of Semi-Gloss Paint: tend to be much more durable as they can be easily cleaned with most cleaning products and resist dirt and stains.

Where to Use Semi-Gloss Paint: are typically used for doors, cabinets, woodwork and trim. Many people find Semi-Gloss to be too shiny for walls though it works quite well on surfaces that are prone to get a lot of handprints

Comments on Semi-Gloss Paint: A semi-gloss reflects between 35 to 50 percent of the light that hits it. Which means it will have a much shinier appearance.

HIGH - GLOSS

Durability of High-Gloss Paint: While the high sheen allows for an easy surface to clean, any dents or dings in the paint will be very visible.

Where to Use High Gloss Paint: take extra precautions in choosing where you use this sheen. High Gloss should be limited to areas such as kitchen cabinets, banisters and railings, trim, furniture, door jambs, window sills and specialty uses. You wouldn't typically paint a wall with high-gloss paint because the reflective qualities create too much glare.

Comments on High Gloss Paint: High-Gloss reflects approximately 75%-80% of the light that hits it.

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If you have a flat roof or roofing with very minimal slope and you are in the market for any repair or replacement, you may want to consider the installation of rubber roofing. This type of roofing has been gaining popularity because of its many benefits such as being energy efficient, durable, easy to maintain, environment friendly, easy to install, lightweight, great insulator and weatherproof. It can also be fire-resistant and can withstand mold and mildew infection. Installing rubber roofing can be one of the smartest decisions you will make to prevent water leakage seeping into your interior and damaging your foundation. One beautiful thing about this type of roofing is that it is quite easy to fix any splits, small cracks and fissures. Rubber roofing is something new, innovative and revolutionary.

In installing rubber roofing, always make sure that you enlist the services of a professional installer to make sure that it is done the right way. Quality job is more important than saving from installation fees by trying to make it a do-it-yourself project. You also have to watch the weather forecast and make sure that it is installed when you do not expect any rain to fall while roofing is being done. If you choose a wrong day when rain pours while you are in the process of installation, moisture damage can occur and your insulation materials may likely be damaged. If you hire the experts, they have the technical knowhow and experience to choose the best time to do the job.

Rubber roofing is ideal and has been proven to be long lasting in making your roof sturdier. There are two commonly known types of rubber roofing, the seamless whole rubber roof the rubber shingles. A whole roof to be installed with rubber roofing can be a bit higher in cost. In whole rubber roofing, they use a new single ply membrane over your entire roof made of synthetic rubbers. It is similar to shrink wrapping. They are ideal if your roof is flat or low slope which requires a roofing solution which can control gravity. The rubber membranes are fastened mechanically or glued down to the roof. Manufacturers offer very long warranties like about 15-20 years. Rubber shingles are similar to asphalt shingles. These are synthetic materials that look like the authentic traditional shingles. They can be formed into any cut or shape you want. If you have an asphalt roofing shingle which already needs replacement, an alternative option for you is rubber shingles.

Before you decide on this type of roofing, always do some homework and research on the subject. Educate yourself on the various kinds of roofing available out there. Compare each type and the cost aspect. This is an investment which can pay for itself in the long run because of its energy efficiency. However, most types of roofing also make this similar claim.

Once you have decided on rubber roofing, choosing the professional installer is your next step. There are many sources such as the yellow pages and the net. Another option is your community. You can go around your neighborhood and check who among your neighbors have rubber roofs. Talk to them and ask relevant questions. Their satisfaction rating is very important. If they are happy with the product and the installer, ask for the info and contact details of their roofing contractor.

Before you start your selection process, it is advisable to have some video and digital photos taken of your present roof. Site inspection by the roofing contractor is a must. Try to get in touch with at least 3 reputable roofing contractors and get them to send you a quote inclusive of spare parts and accessories. Because of the expansion and contraction of rubber, it is better to request also for a quote of the most effective liquid rubber sealant. You can also opt to upgrade and install high performance insulation before you have the rubber membrane applied. In closing, if you want something new, innovative and revolutionary, go for rubber roofing!

Fitting out.

Busy boatyards get busier at fitting out time, the beginning of a new season. The gloom of a UK winter generally chases the sailor to warmer climes during winter months, so inevitably, there is work to be done before the first sail.

Sometimes known as a 'shakedown', we have to wake the engine from its hibernation, slap on the antifouling, grease the winches, check the safety gear. The excitement of seeing our precious vessel craned into the water is followed by the trepidation of rediscovering just how rusty our seamanship skills are after a prolonged winter lay-up. Hopefully, the old magic will return as soon as the tiller or wheel is back in your hand.

The batteries go flat, no VHF radio, no GPS, no navigation lights. The water in the tanks smells of rotten eggs. The log impeller gets stuck and the winches are stiff. But it's when things don't go to plan that true seamanship and friendship is put to the test. Riggers will tell you about catastrophic rig failure all because a humble split pin fell out. Better to have a shakedown than a mast fall down.

Boat repair includes woodwork and joinery, hull repair, deck repair, grp repair and sterngear repair.

Rig checks and testing

Not all rig failures are catastrophic, but most are inconvenient, expensive and avoided. Check your rig and you can detect and prevent problems before they happen.

Checking the rig, sails, standing and running rigging for safety doesn't end with fitting out. Safe sailing is a season-long issue.

Insurers differ where rigs are concerned. Some say rigging needs replacing after 10 years, others want a survey after five. Many rigs don't have history or service records. All this tells you your rig is something of an unknown quantity.

Genoa cars

10% of genoa cars can fail between seasons. Check split pins and grub screws as some makes are prone to coming apart. If the car's plunger stop or towing system fails under load, the car could knock off the aft end block and in a flash you'll have bearings everywhere and a useless car. Check the genoa track bolts and end blocks.

Shroud terminals

Check that everything is secured with good condition split pins (on clevis pins and bottlescrews) or locknuts. Lift shroud covers regularly and clean out the salt and grit. During maintenance, add stainless steel washers inside the clevis pin split pins to limit wear and working if there's room as the clevis pins rotate.

Check all shrouds and stays at upper and lower terminals

as well as at spreader ends. Replace any where stranding is found. If stranding is detected on one shroud, replace both it and the opposite shroud. Rust-coloured deposits at the neck of a swage can indicate that one of the strands was not properly polished before the wire was twisted and the impurities have flowed to the terminal and oxidised. Scotchbrite clean and check again.Tying warps to shroud bases deforms and weakens rigging screws and toggles.

If you have single roll-swaged terminals (look for opposing flashlines on the terminal) and one strand has gone, it's likely the opposite strand has gone too.

Mainsheet hardware

Check all mainsheet and traveller blocks for damage or distortion, make sure split pins are in position and taped, and shackles tight and seized. Check all mainsheet track bolts and end blocks are secure... the mainsheet car can overpower the travellerjammer while gybing in a blow and smash through the end of the track.

Mast gaiters

Check they are not perished and seal with rubber-friendly sealant. Before refitting, make sure the mast is chocked stable, otherwise the mast wall rubs against the deck ring, damaging both deck and mast. UV is hard on gaiters so pay extra attention if you keep the boat somewhere sunny.

Furling gear
Check the furling line from end to end. Check all the lead blocks are fair and the guide arm and drum are secure. Most importantly, check the securing screws where the drum meets the tuff tube and Locktite or tape over with PVC tape. They often work loose and fall out.

Gooseneck

There's a huge amount going on at both the gooseneck and kicker/vang attachment - rotation, tension and compression under load. Often this distorts aluminium fittings.

Remove the fitting, file back into shape, grease and replace, using stainless steel or nylon washers to restrict the amount of working, then secure with good condition split pins.

Running rigging

Check sheets and guys for wear. Whip if the cover is partly chafed, replace if the core is damaged. Whip or burn both ends to prevent fraying. If you haven't done so on laying up, remove, mouse and check all halyards. Wash all running rigging in soapy water, rinse thoroughly and keep any spare line below when you're not at sea as it degrades in UV. For the same reason, give the mainsheet and jib sheets your particular attention.

With halyards and sheets, always buy 3-6ft more than you need so that you can take lft off the working end every season to change the contact points and limit the danger of parting due to chafe.

Standing rigging

Check the hook neck of T terminals as this is where they usually crack and break.

Masthead checks

Check masthead clevis pins are secured with good condition split pins as they work considerably and can straighten and work loose, or break and fall out.

Check the spinnaker block shackles are nipped up and seized with wire.

Check main and genoa halyard separators and sheaves for wear. If your mast has a bolted-on head unit and you find wear, replacement means removing, repairing and refitting the head unit with the mast unstepped. Damage indicates the main halyard has been over-tightened. Mark your halyard every season so that you hoist to 6in below the separator, then rig a cunningham for luff tension or recut the sail.

Wire halyards can wear through your genoa halyard separator

If your fractional spinnaker halyard is retained with eye bolts, there will be greater wear on the halyard. Pulleys or trumpet fittings give a larger contact point, which reduces wear.

Mast section

Check radar brackets for excessive working and pack with washers to limit this. Check light fittings, bulbs and wiring, spinnaker pole track bolts and end fittings, spinnaker pole cars - and any other fittings.

Check shroud attachments. If the backing plates are worn, cracked or pulling away from the mast, consult your rigger. It may not be critical but it's not a good sign. Get it checked. Clean the entire section with white spirit and Scotchbrite to check for cracks and bring up the colour of the anodising.

Spreaders

Check spreader sockets, clevis pins and split pins for wear and excessive working. Replace and pack with stainless steel or nylon washers during maintenance.

Check the spreaders ends are secure and not heavily pitted or corroded. If they're not covered, protect them with plastic covers but still check regularly.

Check the spreaders' leading and trailing edges for wear from badly stowed stays and halyards. Slice lengths of PVC tubing, fit over leading and trailing edges and tie and tape on with self-amalgamating tape to prevent wear, both on the spreader from stays and on the sail from the spreaders.

Split pins

The humble split pin holds your rig up so check them all regularly. If they're not properly fitted, they can straighten

or break as the clevis pin works around, and fall out, followed by the clevis pin, then your rig. Curl back both pin legs, packing stainless-steel washers to limit working, then secure with tape or silicon.

Blocks and shackles

Check all lead blocks (especially around the mast base) and shackles for tightness, then seize (shackle pins with a flat tab instead of a hole can't be seized effectively and aren't recommended for any load-bearing purpose). Seizing wire is best, cable ties are satisfactory but will degrade in UV and need replacing regularly. Replace blocks showing signs of cracking, wear or distortion.

Rig tension

on modern rigs with swept-back spreaders, the lowers are likely to go first because they work fore and aft, and transverse. When sailing, check you have enough shroud tension to prevent the leeward shrouds becoming slack. With more traditional rigs with inline spreaders, the leeward rigging should slacken slightly.

Lubrication

Lubricate all sheaves, luff tubes and tracks with Teflon spray. Silicon grease is fine for sheaves but, if used on main tracks or luff tubes, will leave marks on your sails.

Checking stepped rigs

While inspection is easier on an unstepped rig, some problems are easier to spot with the rig up, the tension on and the rig settled. Without tension, a broken strand may settle back into a shroud terminal and appear fine whereas under load, it's obvious. If you mast is up, send someone aloft to check everything, make sure they know what they're looking for.

Mast electrics

Ensure your mast electrics are sound. Track down the causes of chafe and use cable ties to secure wires out of harm's way

Check everything regularly.

On deck

Winches: Old oil and grease lose viscosity and winches will slip when springs and pawls get stuck. Strip down, wash parts in paraffin and lightly regrease .

Windlasses: If manual, check they're working, clean and tighten. For powered versions check foot switch forwater, clean and use Vaseline on the connections.

Anchor chain: Re-mark lengths if faded, or add chain markers.

Check for kinking or wear in gas hosepipe. If in doubt replace. Check hose clips and tighten.

Harnesses/lifelines: check stitching and get repairs done by sailmakers if necessary.

Jackstay and danbuoy lines: check for UV damage.

MOB lights: change bulb, and squirt WD40 on copper contact strip inside. Use Vaseline on 'O'rings when reassembling.

Lifejackets: inflate using mouth tube. Leave inflated overnight to check for leaks. Wash with freshwater. If auto-inflation, disable device first.

Stanchions/lifelines: check stanchions and make sure lifelines have not corroded beneath plastic sheathing.

Inflate lifejackets and use Vaseline on the'O' rings of MOB lights

Heads and bilges

Check impeller on bilge pumps and grease with petroleum jelly; replace gasket.
If you have an automatic bilge pump, check float switches work.

Dry bilges thoroughly then if water appears after relaunch you'll know you've got a leak.
Fill watertank and add purifier.

If the pump on the heads is stiff, run washing-up liquid into the bowl and pump out.
Use Puriclean in your watertank and check bilge pumps work before relaunch

Engines

You should have changed the oil when you laid up. Over winter, it will have soaked up chemicals and acids. Worth changing it again. Ditto gearbox oil. Change oil and fuel filters. Remove rags stuffed in outlet pipes. Impellers- if removed at lay-up - reinstall with a smear of Vaseline on blades. Re-install the engine belts and check tension: no more than half an inch of play.

Saildrives

Check oil level. Check durability of the gaiter seal. Check rubber faring and reseal if necessary.
Change internal engine anode. Check engine mounts secure.

Check diesel tank for water from condensation. Drain off, or replace fuel. Add water-eliminating additive to fuel to kill off diesel'bugs'.

Check inaccessible wiring, such as bonding wires from the anode and earthing wires from the starter motor. Clean the terminals and smear them with Vaseline.

Batteries and electrical systems

Check electrolyte level; tighten battery securing straps and make sure vent for gases is clear. Clean terminals and coat with Vaseline.

Switch on instruments and use backlighting to help reduce any condensation.
If the anode looks serviceable for another season, check bonding wires.

Hulls and skin fittings

Grease seacocks:All hoses should be double-clipped. Check jubilee clips for rust. Do you have wooden plugs attached in case of emergency?

Check skin fittings are free of blockages/ growth or antifouling.

Rudders

Check leading and trailing edges for hairline cracks. Check for play in bearings, stock or quadrant. Movement should be minimal. Grease steering cable.

Keels

Check for stress cracks at root.

Prop shafts and stern glands

To check bearings, grasp prop in both hands and try moving it from side to side. There should be little if any movement.

Check P-bracket for stress cracking from misalignment or damage.

Stern gland packing can dry out and get brittle. It needs changing after a few seasons.

Grease prop shaft and glands. Modern-type seals need venting on immersion. Check and/or replace conventional packing.

Check rubber glands on stern tubes and saildrives, which have a life expectancy of between five and 12 years.

Check keels and rudders for stress cracks.

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Decorative crown molding has changed over the centuries. Crown molding has a rich history which dates back to the second millennium B.C. and was often found in palaces. It has evolved from the beauty of the Greek forms to the simple curves of the Roman era; from the flowers and vines of the Gothic rounds to a return to the simple forms of the Romans during the Renaissance. Today, crown molding can be found in just about any type of material. So what's appropriate? Which one should you use? There are so many, it can be a little daunting. So let's take a brief look at the different kinds of materials that crown molding is often crafted from.

Traditionally, crown molding has been made from milled hardwood and plaster. Wood crown molding can be found and made from several hardwoods such as hickory, ash, poplar, alder, cherry, maple, mahogany and oak. Wood crown molding enriches the character of any interior as it frames your ceiling and complements your decor. There are many styles available and you can find many of the traditional styles, such as acanthus, grape and oak leaf motifs and shell. Wood crown molding will certainly add classic detail to any room.

On the down side, hardwood moldings can be quite expensive. Forest resources are limited. The softwood moldings require more time and care to install and finish, although it is less expensive than hardwood. Wood moldings shrink and swell with humidity, they can be damaged by water, it is combustible, it can be damaged by rot and insects, it can crack, it requires mitering and coping skills, it may split and splinter when nailed or cut, and wood molding must be sanded and primed prior to finishing. These disadvantages may outweigh wood's good points for many.

Renewed interest has been growing in decorative ornamental plaster. Decorative plaster molding can be found in all styles. Ornamental plaster crown moldings do not shrink, burn, warp or produce toxic fumes. Ornamental plaster can be formulated in a wide range of compositions to yield finished products which include a range of properties. They are versatile, safe, stable and economic. Ornamental plaster, although an excellent product, can be costly to install. Although it is no longer required to be manufactured in place, skilled craftsmen are in short supply and it has become almost a lost art.

MDF crown molding, a wood-based composite material that uses wood fibers with a synthetic resin, is another example of how a builder or decorator can accent any room or hallway. MDF is environmentally safe and requires less preparation. It is often primed to a smooth surface which can then be painted with any high quality latex or oil paint. MDF won't split when cutting, is resistant to warping and is consistent in size and shape. However, during installation of MDF, nailing creates blemishes that will require repair, by hand, prior to finishing. Although it is a less costly alternative to other materials in use, most professionals do not recommend its use.

Polyurethanes are found in many items. They are used in resins, adhesives, fibers, foam padding and insulation. They come in several forms, such as rods, sheets and liquids. Polyurethanes are frequently used as an alternative to such materials as wood, plastics, metal and rubber. And for good reason. Polyurethanes are resistant to wear and tear, weather, impact, scratching and erosion. They are also more cost-effective as an alternative as well.

Other uses for polyurethanes include: fibers, seals, gaskets, condoms, hard plastic parts, carpet underlay and sealants. Items such as domed ceilings, moldings and ceiling medallions are easier to construct of polyurethane foam rather than wood. In fact, polyurethane is considered to be the best replacement for plaster. It's low cost, lightweight and anything you can do to wood, you can do to polyurethane. It is easy to install, can be used either interiorly or on the exterior and is available in the widest range of products.

In its most flexible form, polyurethanes are found in upholstery fabrics, while the more rigid foams are used inside the metal and plastic walls of most refrigerators and freezers. They are commonly utilized to make up paints, varnishes and glue. Your computer mouse-pad bottom is most likely made of polyurethane foam.

Flexible molding, which is one type of polyurethane, makes it a cinch to decorate around curved walls and arched doorways and windows. Flexible molding is made from a compound polymer resin that has been engineered to bend or curve around more challenging shapes. It can be bent or twisted without breaking or splintering. Flexible molding can actually be purchased in a range of grades, from very flexible to totally rigid.

One of the best features of flexible molding is it's superiority to wood. Flexible molding can be stained, painted, or sealed just as ordinary molding, but without having to prime the surface first. It also resists warping, wearing, splitting, or mildewing, so it's great for outdoor use as well.

The installation of crown molding cannot be made any easier than with peel and stick. Peel and stick comes in kits of plastic molding pieces which have self-adhesive backs and four outside corners. Peel and stick is available for the really low-tech, low cost way to decorate. No power tools, saws, nails or hammers are required. No mitering of corners is necessary. One person can install it in no time with no trouble.

Peel and stick, though, especially due to its low-tech and low cost, lacks relief. That is, there is no depth or thickness and it will appear flat.

Styrofoam, also called Expanded Polystyrene., has been used for many years by architects on buildings, homes and in museums. Styrofoam crown molding is light weight, durable and versatile, inexpensive, and adhesive to most kinds of paint. Other advantages and reasons for its gain in popularity are that it requires no special tools to install, and in fact can be installed in less than a day by the average homeowner. Styrofoam does not rot, crack, decay or succumb to insect damage. It can however melt or burn when exposed to flame and must be encased, as it will release toxic fumes when burning.

Another material that is finding its way into popularity is vinyl. Vinyl crown molding gives that old plaster look. While traditional plaster and wood crown molding require extensive experience, the advantage to using vinyl is its simplicity. It is low maintenance, does not blister or peel, swell or shrink when used in extreme moisture conditions, and will not rust, rot, pit or corrode and will not be attacked by insects.

Aluminum, stamped metal, crown molding featuring heavy-duty all aluminum construction is also available for use as a decorative accent. It is preformed inside and outside corners eliminate miter cuts, making installation easier. It is easy to cut, and installs like traditional moldings. It is durable and rugged. Aluminum is a tremendous bang for the buck. Use stamped metal for industry, factory, office, retail spaces, workshop, garages, kitchens, and trade shows.

Styrofoam, aluminum and vinyl moldings are primarily used for exterior decorative purposes.

Each material has its advantages and disadvantages and each homeowner must weigh these options based on their own requirements and desires. I hope this article will help to make the job a little easier. Happy decorating!

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