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First we need pick our colors. This can be one of the trickiest parts of the stamping process. There are of course color swatches, the best way to pick your color from a color swatch is to pick a color from the swatch and then go back one or two colors to get the actual color that you want. This is very similar to picking out a color that you want to paint a room. There are many variables such a lighting and the other colors in the room (sofa's, rugs drapes etc.) that you wish to paint. How many times have you picked out a color at the paint store and started to paint your room and suddenly it just will not seem to match the color you picked from a swatch. This is what I call perceived vision. If you can relate to what I have just mentioned it also applies to picking out a color for your stamped concrete project, there are many variables of perceived vision, such as sunlight and surrounding colors, such as the color of your house, grass, and landscaping.

Onto pouring and finishing your stamped concrete project, I suggest that you start with no more than 100 square feet. First off let the concrete truck driver put the color into the concrete truck for you, and let it mix for at least 10 minutes. You may notice some streaking of the color as it comes out of the concrete truck, not to worry. You will want some color differences as this will resemble the natural colors of what ever impressions or stamp that you have chosen for your project. For example if you look at a rock you will notice that it has many shades of the same color and often some other colors. Your next step will be to insert the concrete into your forms, you will need what is called a screed board or a 2"x 4", the purpose of a screed board is to level out the concrete inside of your forms and to also knock down the aggregate or rocks inside the cement.

Place the wet concrete inside your form work and leave it about a .5" higher than the top of your forms. A good way to get a rough grade is to use a tool called a concrete rake or a square edged shovel. Once you have gotten the concrete .5" above your form work you can start the "screeding" process. You will need someone to help you with this process. Once you have one person on each side of the screed board each of you will start to pull the concrete towards the end of the form work leveling as you go along. At this point you will need a bull float to close the surface of the concrete.

Generally you will run the bull float from top to bottom across the concrete overlapping each previous pass approximately 50% and then repeat the process from side to side. Do not worry about getting it completely flat, as once you begin to stamp it will not be flat at all. Do not get hung up on small dips or small elevation changes in the concrete. Now you may begin to edge the perimeter of the concrete with an edging tool, again do not get hung up on doing this perfect, especially if this is your first time. Now you will run a fresno across your project in the same manner as the bull float.

Now it is time to stamp your project. Prior to the concrete truck arriving, you will want to place the liquid release agent into a cheap garden sprayer and also get yourself some surface retardant and do the same. Liquid release simply allows you to place the rubber stamp onto the concrete without pulling off the finish of your concrete, the surface retardant will slow the set time of the concrete if you feel you are getting behind. Simply spray the area you will be placing your stamp and the stamp itself before you place the stamp onto the concrete. Do not spay the entire project at once as this will accelerate the setting time of the concrete and it will more than likely dry up before you get to the end of your project. Place each stamp down and set the next stamp snug against the stamp mat that is already on the concrete. Repeat this process until you reach the end.

Let your project cure for about 3-5 days and it is time to add secondary colors or the antique stage. For this you will need to get an antique agent, I suggest you use charcoal or grey for your first time. You will also need to get some xylene, one gallon for every 80_90 square feet. You will then add 5 tbsp. of antique agent to the xylene in a 1 gallon garden sprayer and stir or shake for about 45 seconds. In a circular motion spray the secondary colors onto the stamped concrete project, keeping in mind to spray some areas thicker that others, while being careful not to spray it on to thick, this will give you a more natural looking finish.

Let the xylene dry and apply two coats of; non-yellowing, solvent based acrylic sealant. Your project will be a lot darker when you apply the sealant than you anticipated, not to worry, the sealant also needs to cure. Within a day or two it will lighted up to your perceived vision.

Several coating materials can be used to coat garage floors. Commonly four basic types of materials are used to coat concrete garage floors. These materials include:

o Epoxy
o Polyurethane
o Acrylic Sealer/Stain
o Latex

Epoxy

It is widely used as floor coating. It is very resistant to chemical but gets yellow and less glossy upon long exposures to direct sunlight. It forms hard long lasting surface and binds strongly with concrete surface. It is available in solvent or water based formulations with ratio of 1 part or 2 parts. It should be applied between temperature ranges of from 60 to 80 degrees in less humid environment. Epoxy will get dry in few hours if it is applied in high temperature range. But you have to wait for several days to get hard enough for vehicle traffic. Curing time can be reduced by increasing application temperature to 90 degrees. Major problems which occur during application are bubbling, blush and color streaking. Air trapped with nap roller causes bubbling while other contaminants of flooring material and moisture results in color streaks. Blushes are formed as white greasy or waxy layer. They are formed due to reaction between atmosphere moisture and hardening material. If garage is extensively used you need to recoat after every 3 to 5 years.

Polyurethane

It is bit expensive coating material than all other materials. It is more resistant to chemicals as compared to epoxy and does not get fade too much upon exposure to sunlight. It is highly durable and gives fine glossy finish. But it is not suggested to directly use on concrete flooring. It can only bind properly when applied over primer coat of epoxy. It is used as protective coating and creates special effect. Besides its expensive cost one can use if he/she wants traditional look.

Acrylic Sealer/Acid Stain

Acrylic Sealer/acid stain adds unique and expressive finish in multiple tones and colors. You can recreate the appearance of your stone flooring. It will give you chance to experiment and diverse patterns and designs. Acid stains are translucent and make design with blemishes of concrete flooring. It is not a coating it chemically reacts with floor. That's why floor must be free of contaminants. It is kind of permanent finish and needs additional protective coating with acrylic sealer. This protective coating can be damaged with exposure to sun light and dragging of heavy objects across the floor surface. Sealer needs protective waxing one or more than one time in order to maintain its proper look.

Latex

It is least expensive material among all other coating materials. It is a synthetic polymer that resembles to latex obtained from rubber tree. There are many misconceptions that it is not a good floor coating material. It can be a good option of floor coating material. Performance mainly depends on the formulation of paint.

Lots of homeowners find out they have an uninvited guest shacking up in their basement. Ever seen little white fuzzy stuff on your concrete basement floor?

Mold on concrete can take many forms. Concrete is a porous substance, and your basement floor gets a lot of moisture from the ground underneath it.

Usually, concrete foundations have a moisture barrier. But, in some cases the moisture barrier is old or damaged, or it may not have been properly installed.

In arid places like Southern California, Arizona and high altitudes, you may not have a moisture barrier built into your home. You usually don't need it, but if you have a heavy rain or a spell of humid weather, you're likely to get that nasty mold growing on your concrete floors.

If you have mold growing on basement tiles or under basement carpeting, the cause may be the concrete underneath. No matter what your mold problem, you have to remove it from your concrete.

A Little Bleach And Elbow Grease

If you've got a little mold growing on your concrete surfaces, it's easy enough to clean up. For little bits of mold here on there, use a solution of water and bleach. 4 parts water to 1 part bleach is usually the recommended formula. You can also find cleaning products designed specifically for mold removal.

Scrub at the moldy spots with your bleach and water until it's gone. Be careful - that bleach is dangerous stuff. Make sure you have some good rubber gloves and be careful that the bleach doesn't come into contact with anything else.

Seal It Up

If you have more serious mold problems and a good scrubbing won't get rid of it, you might try sealing the cracks. Chances are, the appearance of mold on your concrete surfaces is a symptom of a bigger structural problem in your home. There may be cracks in the concrete or walls that allow moisture to come into the house.

Go to the hardware store and look for a waterproofing compound made for this specific purpose. If you're totally unsure, talk to the clerk and explain your problem. What you want is something especially designed to seal up cracks in your concrete and walls. The compound will come with detailed instructions on how to use it.

Call The Contractor

If you have water wicking up from under your foundation into the concrete, you've got a much bigger problem. You may need to call a professional.

What you'll need to do is take off all the flooring so the original concrete is exposed. This is something you can probably do yourself, but you should make sure to keep yourself safe. Any time you're dealing with mold, make sure you have good gloves and a mask, and make sure that the mold doesn't get into any other parts of the house. Even if you're working in the basement, make sure you have some ventilation going.

Now, you'll need to have a new top layer of concrete poured. It has to be at least one inch thick. Make sure that the new cement is mixed with a waterproofing compound that will keep down its moisture level.

This is a big job and most of us would have to call a contractor. Check your local yellow pages.

It is quite easy to maintain the stamped concrete structures in your home. In fact, there are numerous methods that you can apply easily and conveniently. It is highly recommended that the surface is sealed with specifically designed sealers that are water and heat resistant as well as durable. These protective materials also allow for the easier and quicker cleaning and maintenance of this type of concrete. The different sealers have different composition. Usually sealers are made primarily from solid materials and they are solvent based. They protect the covered surface from the growth of any sort of fungi and are also highly dirt and dust resistant. If you still find it difficult to maintain this kind of concrete surfaces, there are some other efficient cleaning methods that are quite helpful as well.

Most of the damage done to concrete occurs during the seasons with regular rain falls because they bring a lot of dust and dirt that falls on the outdoor surfaces. If the sealer you have used is efficient, no damage should be incurred and the surface should remain relatively clean. If blotches are visible on concrete after rain, this it is a good sign of the performance of sealer. These blotches can easily be removed by cleaning the surface with water and drying it afterward with a cloth or blower. It is effortless and not time consuming. And voila, all patches are gone! It is important for the water to be adequately removed from the sealed concrete in order not to create blotches. A fine solution is to grow plants around the concrete floors because they will be continuously absorbing the water near and on them. Similarly, many people use mats made of rubber. Keep in mind that rubber is easily absorbed by the sealer of the stamped concrete, which leaves the surface covered with unwanted patches.

Make sure that this type of concrete is resealed after a certain period of time. The sealer will slowly wear out and lose its insulation qualities, despite the adequate and regular maintenance. The best option is to reseal the concrete structures every four to six months. This will effectively keep the floor protected from the dust and dirt and you will not have to deal with any unpleasant patches any more. The resealing cycle depends on many factors. The insulating material is actually affected by the sunlight, rain and the weight of the objects placed on the concrete structure. So, you have to calculate on your won after how many months you will need to reseal it. The greater the exposure to rain, water and dust, the sooner the stamped concrete requires resealing.

If you do not pay special attention to the resealing process, then it will start losing its functional qualities. Its color will look faded. However, if you reseal the concrete even after it has lost its initial color, you will have a brilliant concrete floor again. If by accident something is spilled on your concrete floor then do not worry at all. All you have to do is to wash it with some dish-washing detergent and then let it dry for some time. You will see that concrete floor can be very easily maintained. Thus, do not hesitate to keep it looking brighter and shiner.

When casting concrete into ABS or rubber molds, should you use Portland cement and sand? Premixed bags of concrete? Premixed Bags of Sand Mix? Moulding Plaster? There are two primary rules, and a couple of secondary considerations that will determine what to use. First and foremost, follow the instructions on the product you are using. And be sure to wear protective clothing and equipment as specified by the cement manufacturer.

Mold Thickness and Size Matters - You can use bags of premix "Concrete" or bags of premix "Sand Mix" depending on what thickness you are casting. The main differences are the size of the aggregate in each type. Concrete has larger aggregate or gravel in with the sand and Portland cement, and is designed for castings of two-inches and thicker. These premixed bags of concrete should meet or exceed ASTM C-387 and will yield a compressive strength of 4,000 psi at 28 days, if mixed per instructions. Sand Mix is Portland cement and sand, as the name implies, and is designed for use at half-inch thick and up to two-inch deep mold thickness. Sand Mix used as directed and in accordance with ASTM C-387 yields a compressive strength of 5,000 psi after 28 days.

Where to Use Bags of Sand Mix - Cement tiles and thin brick veneer, which are usually about half-inch thick or thinner are best made with a Sand Mix. Stone veneer under two-inches thick, and most wall plaques would be cast with Sand Mix as well. If the items being made are for an interior application on a vertical surface, such as a brick or tile wall, you may use a plaster instead of Sand Mix. Using plaster would produce a lighter weight tile, brick or stone as well as allowing the use of ready-made wall tile mastic to install them. This comes in buckets, and is readily available in most home supply stores.

It should be noted that a half-inch thick cement tile, paver or brick can handle the weight of vehicular traffic, as in a driveway, if they are installed over a solid concrete base. The same holds true for covering a concrete patio. Stones of a half-inch thick, properly installed with thin-set and or mortar, and made with Sand Mix have a compressive strength of over 5,000 psi. The savings in raw material costs between pouring concrete into a half-inch thick mold, versus a two to three inch thick mold is substantial. So if you are covering a concrete sidewalk, patio or driveway, you may want to consider using a thinner mold.

Where to Use Bags of Concrete Mix - Driveway pavers, stepping stones, thick cast manufactured stone, garden and landscape edging, and anything that is going to end up being thicker than two-inches would require using pre-mixed Concrete-- the stuff with the gravel. The gravel makes it stronger and able to withstand the extra weight these concrete products are expected to handle when installed in a packed sand and gravel installation. A properly prepared base will give you years of service with very little maintenance.

Alternative to Using Bags of Premixed Concrete - For large projects, to save money, and to have more control over your mix design, I recommend using Portland cement, which comes in 94 lb. bags. You will also need bulk sand and/or gravel, additive, concrete color, etc., to make your stones. Or in the case of needing to make batches of light or medium weight stone for walls, you would want to start with Portland cement and a lightweight aggregate like lava rock, Vermiculite, Perlite, expanded shale, or other lightweight aggregate.

When making stone or tile for large projects, or commercially for resale, the savings in raw materials cost will make a big difference in your total cost of the project versus using bags of pre-mixed concrete or Sand Mix. Be aware that there are some negatives though. When designing and mixing your own batches you need to consider that you'll have to purchase bulk sand, and have a place to store it. The same holds true for gravel if the items you are making are thicker than two inches. If you need additional help or advice, there are a variety of mix designs, and other tips and techniques on our Training and Instructions website, as well as hundreds of other free articles relating to the concrete casting industry.